What's for lunch?

Many people have asked me what I ate while in Africa.  People who know me well, know that I have been following a specific diet for several years.  Doctors have recommended a diet free of gluten and dairy for me, which has worked quite well for my body, although it does create a challenge in finding things to eat sometimes.  I was relieved to know that the diet in Africa was perfect for me- rice, beans, veggies, yes please!  At the Iris base in Pemba, there is a cafeteria where all meals are served.  As you approach the dining hall, someone is sitting on the steps with a large bucket filled with water.  Each person stands in a line outside the building and as they approach the "water bearer", they hold out their cupped hands to receive the water as the person pours it into your palms.  You then rub your hands together to wash them and allow the water to drip to the side onto the ground.  I had heard there is a tiny bit of bleach in the water to help disinfect which seems helpful considering the potential spread of disease.

As you walk into the building, you see the rows of tables and benches similar to picnic tables.  Everyone stands in a single file line waiting to approach the counter.  Behind the counter is the kitchen and it is always bustling with kitchen staff standing over these huge pots, stirring and serving into plastic dishes.  The food is cooked in bulk and always consists of rice and... something.  Lunch is always rice and beans.  We used to joke as we'd pass people on their way out of the cafeteria saying "what's for lunch today?"  It was such a silly question because it was always rice and beans, but sometimes we'd say "beans and rice!" in an effort to make it seem different that day.  Dinner consisted of rice and either cabbage, potatoes, spinach, a small (and I do mean small) piece of fish or chicken and an occasional banana or apple slice.  The staff would be sweating from the hot kitchen, the heat coming from those huge pots and the steaming food.

Mozambicans eat with their hands.  There is no silverware.  They stir the steaming rice and beans with their fingers, pulling their hand away every few seconds until the temperature was cool enough for them to hold the food without it burning.  They would use their fingers to create a ball of food and then scoop it into their mouths.  I watched people do this with precision and skill.  I always brought my spoon with me to use because I know that bacteria is easily spread through hands and didn't want to risk it.

I always felt full and grateful for the food, no matter what it was.  I would sit with the kids and other visitors or missionaries on staff.  We would work to communicate.  Most of the kids speak the tribal language, Macua (also spelled Makua sometimes).  Some people speak Portuguese, the official language and if kids go to school they learn Portuguese and English.  All the kids on the base go to the school run by Iris.  There are also kids from the village who attend the Iris School.  In these cases, kids are familiar with multiple languages.  However, in the more rural areas, most people only know their tribal language.

Sometimes mealtime was full of laughter and fun.  It was a time for socializing and finding out how everyone's day was going.  Other times it felt like middle school for me.  I was traveling alone so I was always looking for people to sit with and hoping someone would invite me to their table (or at least not cringe if I sat at their table!).  I wanted to spend time with the Mozambicans, but like in most new situations, this requires courage, humility and patience.  Sitting with Americans or those from other countries who spoke English would be easier in a lot of ways.   Trying to communicate in a different language and working through cultural differences is much harder.  There were these awkward silences when there was a communication barrier or someone was not in the mood to converse.  Also, there are cultural considerations.  For example, it is inappropriate, or could be misconstrued, if a woman were to sit too close to a man.  I was always trying to figure out if I was breaching some cultural norm.

People come and go through the Iris base so frequently that some people don't always seem interested in putting forth effort to build relationships.  "You'll be gone soon" could be a thought that goes through the mind of a child.  I tried hard to learn enough words to communicate and press through the discomfort.  It was always worth it.

For the most part though, people were eager to talk, to learn about me, to demonstrate their English language skills and teach me words in their language.

This photo is taken inside the cafeteria from one of the tables.  You can see the line of people waiting to get their portion for the day.

 This is a picture looking outside the cafeteria at a "Tia" or Auntie who takes care of the babies.  She is hanging clothes on the line to dry.  The windows of the cafeteria are open, besides the security bars, to allow a wonderful breeze to come through often.

 These are two boys who live at Iris.  The one on the left wore a Superman shirt most days.  The food is served in colorful plastic plates.